nyfw

NYFW Spring 2012 Backstage Beauty: Betsey Johnson and butter LONDON

by Diana Ajih on September 15, 2011

butter LONDON, the cult phenomenon of the nail industry, is a backstage staple once again – creating the nail looks for top shows this season including Victoria Beckham, Calvin Klein, Betsey Johnson, Erin Fetherston and more. Founding Creative Director Nonie Creme is known throughout the industry for her innovative design and technique and custom blended colors that are always Fashion Week highlights. On Monday, September 12th, Nonie created a one-of-a-kind nail look at the Betsey Johnson show.

Creme describes the look:

“Betsey’s girl this season was influenced by vintage Debbie Harry – sexy, full-blown high octane glamour! We did a reverse half moon manicure, with a “stair step” (meaning the false nail sits slightly higher than the nail plate – creating that extra “pop” for the catwalk) holographic glitter tip, in a pointed almond shape. For the glitter tip, we used Diamond Geezer and a holographic shade that was custom mixed for Betsey, and added a diamond stone to the curved base of each tip. Union Jack Black was used on the actual nail – creating the reverse half-moon that almost had a “bruised” effect. Always wanting one more “wow” factor for Betsey, we added a nail piercing with black baby safety pin. Rock and roll, fun, sex, glamour!”

More pics after the jump…

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NYFW Spring 2012 Backstage Beauty: DKNY

by Diana Ajih on September 15, 2011

in runway beauty

The Look: Hamptons’ Chic

The hair look at the S/S ’12 DKNY show in New York was a pretty, contemporary take on New York glamour with a young and fresh finish. Volume and length were dialled up by adding lots of hair extensions to create a blended contrast to the natural hair color, for a ‘Beachy Hamptons Summer Look’.

“I was inspired by the rich colors and prints of the collection which had a kind of French Riviera feel about it, and I wanted to create a contrast against the high glamour of this look. I wanted the girls to be cool, young and fresh, and their hair to look like it has been in the sun all summer long – so it had variation in color and an arid texture. I wanted the girls to look like they’d be in the Hamptons for the summer and were now back in the City – the contrast of the rich clothes against the fresh, textured hair was what I was after” said Eugene Souleiman, Wella Professionals, Global Creative Director, Care & Styling.

How to Get the Look:

Start with freshly washed and conditioned hair using Wella Professionals Enrich Shampoo and Conditioner for Volume. At the show, Eugene and his team added extensions, but when working with natural hair, roughly blow dry the hair to create volume and body. Spray Wella Professionals, Ocean Spritz, Beach Texture Spray on to dry hair, then wind into a low bun and pin in place, using the hair as a roller by winding the hair back on its self. Apply heat from a hair dryer with a diffuser to the hair, make sure it’s thoroughly dry, and then change the setting to cool to ‘set’ the hair. Once the hair is cool, remove the pins from the hair to release the bun, and run your fingers through the hair to break it up a little and create some texture. The finished look should have a slightly ‘raw’ feel to it.

Products Used:

Wella Professionals Enrich Shampoo
Wella Professionals Enrich Conditioner
Wella Professionals Ocean Spritz, Beach Texture Spray

MAKEUP: Maybelline New York Global Makeup Artist Charlotte Willer

Inspiration: California girl that visits New York. “It’s about the simplicity of beauty — fresh, sun-kissed and glowing”

Face: Willer prepped the models’ skin with Maybelle Fit Me Foundation. T get that “California girl glow,” she used a mixture of blush and bronzer. She then applied Fit Me Bronzer in Light Bronze to the temples, top of cheeks and eyelids. Fit Me Blush in Deep Rose was added to the middle of the cheeks, to give a natural flush.

Eyes: Swept Eye Studio Color Explosion Luminizing Eyeshadow in Caffeine Rush palette across the inner corners of the eyes. She next applied a light beige shade over the lids. To add drama, she applied Volum’ Express One-by-One mascara on the lashes.

Lips: Willer dabbed on Color Sensational High Shine Lipcolor in Glisten Up Pink and Baby Lips Lip Balm in Quenched.

Nails: Brooch the Subject was our go-to shade for fingers and toes and I really love this look — it is classic Essie. Nude, without being too sheer; sophisticated with an edge and totally universal,” said Essie Weingarten, founder and creative director of Essie cosmetics.

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NYFW Spring 2012 Backstage Beauty: Chris Benz

by Diana Ajih on September 15, 2011

in runway beauty

Makeup: Daniel Martin

Inspiration: Candy Darling bright colors

The makeup muse for Chris Benz’s Spring 2012 collection was Candy Darling, a 1960′s nightclub fixture who was part of Andy Warhol’s clique. With Candy and Chris’ bright colors as inspiration, lead makeup artist Daniel Martin wanted to create fresh, clean skin with a pop of color on the eyes and lips. Daniel used shades of sea foam and mint green on the eyes and then applied black gel liner for definition. For thick jet-black lashes, he applied “tons of mascara.” A wash of tangerine blush was applied high on the cheekbones and Lancôme’s new Rouge in Love lipstick gave the models a bright pouty lip.

SKIN:

Teint Miracle Foundation

Blush Subtil in Tangerine Tint

EYES:

Color Design 5 Pan Palette in Vert Tendresse (available February 2012)

Liner Design in Black Fishnets (available February 2012)

Hypnôse Doll Lashes Mascara in So Black!

LIPS:

Rouge in Love Lipstick in Sequence of Love (available February 14, 2012)

NAILS:

Le Vernis Mini Nail Polish in Green Almond and Rose Macaron (available February 2012)

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NYFW Spring 2012 Backstage Beauty: Victoria Beckham

by Diana Ajih on September 14, 2011

in runway beauty

Makeup: Charlotte Tilbury

Inspiration: Sporty chic

Makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury wanted the models at Victoria Beckham’s Spring 2012 show to look “handsome” and “sporty”. Charlotte created fresh, glowing skin with shading and highlighting to contour the face. For the eyes, Lancôme Liner Design in Bronze Couture was mixed with Absolue Bx moisturizer and applied to the crease and then topped with Juicy Tubes in Pure for a glossy finish. Lips were muted with a dab of concealer. Groomed, slightly arched eyebrows gave the look a feminine edge.

ALL LANCOME PRODUCTS USED:

Teint Miracle Foundation

Effacernes Concealer

Star Bronzer Matte

Éclat Miracle Illuminator

Liner Design in Bronze Couture (available April 2012)

Juicy Tubes in Pure (applied to the eyelids)

Le Crayon Poudre brow pencil

Translucence pressed powder (applied to the Tzone)

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NYFW Spring 2012 Backstage Beauty: Yigal Azrouel & butter LONDON

by Diana Ajih on September 13, 2011

in runway beauty

On Sunday, September 11th, Nonie and butter LONDON debuted the butter LONDON Ombre Nails look at Yigal Azrouel’s Cut25 presentation with custom mixes.

Creme describes the ombré nail look:

“We created bespoke mixes for the look at Yigal Azrouel’s Cut25 – Salmon Pink, 80′s Turquoise, and Pastel Pistachio. This is a butter London moment of greatness! Introducing the “ombré” manicure – softly layered, fabric woven-like nails that perfectly accent the woven jewelry here, the ultimate accessory. This is about visual texture; a loose, artistic nail art- I’m all about “fine art for nails” no palm trees or sunsets please!”

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NYFW Spring 2012 Backstage Beauty: Peter Som

by Diana Ajih on September 13, 2011

in runway beauty

Makeup: Tom Pecheux for MAC

The makeup was inspired by the collection’s 60′s flair. “Peter wanted the girls to be made up but we thought black would be too much and too natural would not go with the colorful prints. So we gave it a twist by using a violet burgundy, a color that has nothing to do with the collection,” Tom said. The models had a dewy matte makeup look with nude lips and rosy cheeks. The key focus in the makeup look was burgundy “banana” on the eye crease. He applied a purple eyepencil under eyes and finished with mascara on the top and bottom lashes.

Hair Inspiration: Eugene Souleiman, Wella Professionals Global Creative Director of Care & Styling

This season Peter Som puts the “petal to the metal” with bright bold colors, patterns, and graphic prints juxtaposed with inherently feminine pieces and silhouettes. Because the collection is fit for the contemporary woman, the hair and make-up toughen it up with a little rock and roll edge to embody our modern day heroine’s fierce independence. Eugene describes the look as “kind of bad hair for a bad girl coming from a rich family.” The hair is slightly ‘60s inspired with a modern twist to make the look cooler without eliminating the glamour. With that, the hair features a deep side part with hair swooped to the opposite side of the face and tousled with texture that takes the finish out of the hair but maintains the style. Simply put, “it’s an undone ‘do approached in a classic way,” says Eugene.

Haircolor: Aura, Wella Professionals Color Ambassador

Wella Professionals Color Ambassador, Aura of NYC’s Serge Normant Salon, chose a haircolor palette of warm pastel shades varying from rose gold, peach, apricot, and salmon. These shades represent the harmonious union of bold femininity that is a modern interpretation of the constantly evolving color trend. This look is a natural evolution of the punky pastel trend and the extensions are shaded at the root to match the model’s natural color so that they blend naturally into the overall haircolor look. The warm palette of pastel tones universally flatters any skin tone. Aura and a team of elite Wella Professionals colorists custom colored natural hair extensions using Wella Professionals Color Touch and Relights to achieve shades in a spectrum of soft, warm pastels.

How-to:

Wash and condition hair using Wella Professionals Enrich shampoo, conditioner, and treatment to moisturize dry or damaged hair. This regimen strengthens hair against damage, while leaving hair shiny and smooth without weighing it down.
Prime wet hair for style with Velvet Amplifier, which prepares hair to maximize the benefits of styling products.
Blow out hair with a large round brush to create volume and movement, then lightly mist dry hair with Thermal Image Heat Protection Spray.
Create a deep side part with hair swooping over the side of the face and pin hair underneath to keep it in place.
Using a large barrel curling iron, set several curls in place with remaining hair down the center of the head for added lift.
Unravel the curls and tousle with your hand after a few sprays of Ocean Spritz to create a light, textured feel.